Showing posts with label Travelogues. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travelogues. Show all posts
August 31, 2008
March 13, 2007
A Return To Burma
Bagan Stupas Stained By The Setting Sun
Photography By El-Branden Brazil
After spending a week watching pirate DVDs of the latest cinema hits in Bangkok, finally my visa for Burma (Myanmar) has come through, and I will be able to return for my third trip there tomorrow. I cannot wait to get back into real travel, and to track down the friends I made on my last trip. I do hope that they are okay.
I plan to spend the first few days in wonderful Rangoon (Yangon), while I prepare for my journey up to Bagan. Armed with twenty rolls of professional Velvia film, I have a plan to focus my photography on the local village life in Nyuang U, if all goes well. I am sure that my friends there will help me make it possible. I am pleased with some of the shots from my previous trips to Burma, but I know I can do a lot better. This time, I know what I want.
I would like to update my blog regularly, as I travel the country. Unfortunately, access to the internet is limited at the present time, so I do not think it will be possible to do so. I will try my best, and I will keep a diary, which I will type up here, at a later date.
November 15, 2006
Tales Of Snakes
Right: The Mystic Traveller gets intimate with a python in Thailand.On my various journeys, I have come across snakes, whether wild in the jungle, caged up at zoos, or kept in a snake charmer's basket. Here are a few of my serpent encounters.
When I visited Bombay (Mumbai) in India, I stayed at a hotel in Colaba. After a month staying at $2 a night dives, it was a pleasure to stay at somewhere a little more plush.
Outside the hotel was a snake charmer, crouching near a low wall. As soon as he saw me, dollar signs must have been popping into his line of vision. Without a second's pause, he lifted the lid of the little basket in front of him, at which point, a cobra darted up and out of its weaved home. Instead of staying magically transfixed by the pipe of the charmer, it obviously saw a good chance to escape its humiliating circumstances.
As it quickly tried to slip away, the charmer grabbed it by the tail, forcing the snake to do what it does best in such situations: BITE! Repeatedly, the snake tagged the charmer's shoulder to my horror. However, it soon became apparent that the snake had been treated in some way, perhaps having its fangs removed, because the snake charmer just remained calm and did not seem to care in the slightest.
When I visit Thailand, I feel drawn to see a snake show from time to time. I cannot explain what the attraction is, but there is something fascinating in seeing snake handlers provoke cobras to strike; if somewhat unethical and unnecessary.
In Bangkok, I have seen several times a show that involves a King Cobra - the largest venomous snake in the world. One time, while the performer was busy focusing upon one snake during the show, another cobra decided it had had enough of the camera flashes, and obviously thought it would make a swift exit. It was only when the snake started crawling up the audience's seating area,
and people started to move away quickly, did the snake performer take note of his escaping reptile. To everyone's relief, the truant fanged animal was quickly brought back under control.Unlike the cobra in India, they were clearly still very dangerous; a fact made apparent after a venom-milking demonstration. The process involves forcing the snake's mouth over a rubber bladder, which it punctures with its fangs to release poison into a glass container. This venom is then used to produce vital antivenin for neutralising snake bites. Seeing that yellow gloop did not for a second change my mind that perhaps a cobra bite would not be a whole lot of fun!
When I was night trekking in the Amazon, all I could think about was the Bushmaster, which has the dubious reputation for being highly aggressive and the owner of the largest fangs of any snake in the world. Continually, I watched my every step, carefully following the path provided by my Amazon guide. I flicked my torch light continually about, catching sight of large bull frogs. Suddenly, on the path ahead, the slithering body of a large snake came into view. In panic, thinking that it was a Bushmaster, I screamed out a warning to my guide. In all my years of travelling, I have never seen anyone jump so quickly backwards at Olympian heights, as he did.
To our relief, a biologist that was with us, quickly determined that it was a Rainbow Boa Constrictor; while not venomous, it could still provide a nasty bite with its recticular fangs. However, this did not deter our biologist from pouncing on to it and wrapping it around his shoulders to the horror of our guide.
Of course, inevitably when travelling through Asia, the adventurous gourmet will partake in consuming snakes. In China, I have eaten snake several times, in a variety of concoctions, such as snake so
up, snake cutlets and fried snake skin. It is a hackneyed comparison, but once you get pass the bones, snake does taste just like a chewier chicken.In Vietnam, they sell a ginseng wine that has a fully hooded cobra within the bottle. The snake's venom glands are obviously removed, but it makes for a pleasant drink. The Vietnamese sell souvenir bottles at the airport in Ho Chi Minh. However, any traveller who chooses to purchase one of these, should be aware that it may well get confiscated by Customs on arrival at most international airports, such as Heathrow or JFK.
When I was in Vietnam, there was government moratorium in place to stop the trapping of wild snakes for food, because the rodent populations had now got so out of control that farmers' crops were being severely damaged.
We have very good reasons to be wary of snakes, but they fear us more than we fear them. They deserve our respect, as they have always done. It comes as no surprise to find these magical reptiles being central in so many of the world's cultures, whether in the mythology of the ancient Egyptians, the Maya and Aztec, the Aborigines of Australia, the Buddhists and Hindus of Asia, or in the Edenic stories of the Jews, Christians and Muslims, alike. Snakes will continue to always be entwined into the human psyche.
November 11, 2006
On The China Sea
Left: Silhouetted ship on the horizon of the China Sea, during twilight.Photography by El-Branden Brazil
In 1998, a Chinese ferry service was offered from Osaka, Japan to Shanghai, China. I had become aware of it, when I watched Michael Palin's classic television series, Around The World In 80 Days, and thought that it would be fun to spend Christmas on the high seas, with my friend Jason.
The ticket was extremely cheap, costing only 30,000 yen ($300) return, but after the added charges for the shinkansen (the bullet train) from Tokyo to Osaka, as well as the hotel we stayed at, it quickly became apparent that an airplane flight to Shanghai would have cost the same. However, it was not the cost that was of concern, but the enticement of the sea. There seemed to be something very nostalgic and exotic about travelling to Shanghai by ship.
The ship was not at all luxurious. Tiny cabins were available, but we chose the shared dormitory, which was basically a large room with hard futon mats and pillows. The prospect of sharing space with some thirty snoring fellow passengers was not exactly ideal, but it would be an interesting experience, nonetheless.
After choosing our futons for the next two and a half days, we quickly befriended the only other Westerner on-board, a tall Swede, called Jonas, who was at the time a student in Kyoto. Very quickly, we discovered our new friend to be fine company.
Finally, the ship left Osaka harbour, and we started to embark on our sea adventure. For what seemed like forever, the coastline of Japan continued to accompany us, until finally two tiny islets that sit at the most southern tip of the Japanese archipelago, slowly faded into the distance.
The romance of sailing, soon gave way to the reality that there is very little to actually do out at sea. Wandering around the decks and staring out on the sometimes grey, sometimes green ocean, soon lost its appeal. As to be expected, the bar on-board soon became a haven for stimulation, as bottles and bottles of Tsingtao beer were downed with ease.
As the first night finally came, we stood out on the windy deck at the stern. The sea was quite choppy, but it was refreshing and exciting to be out
there. It was a unique place to celebrate Christmas day, so Jason, Jonas and I decided to light up some cigars. Rather amusingly, none of us are smokers, and so after a few choking puffs, we threw the cigars into the ocean, relieved from further pollution. If only cigars tasted like they smell, I thought.The second day was not a good one for Jonas. The seas were now particularly rough, and our vessel was bobbing up and down with irregular motion. I have travelled on many ships before, and I am lucky not to be someone who suffers from seasickness. In fact, I love it when the seas are rough. I remember when I travelled to Guernsey from the British mainland, on a terribly ferocious evening. Whilst I was running around loving every minute, a poor Catholic nun was one of many passengers suffering.
Out of the three of us, Jonas was the only one to succumb to violent seasickness, which was extraordinary, because he had been in the Swedish Navy for two years, doing national service! Just as he thought his stomach had settled, he had to rush back to the bathroom, often not reaching the appropriate spot on time. He suffered terribly.
In the evening, the storm subsided and Jonas's colour returned. Of course, beer consumption continued unabated.
By the next morning, the novelty for being out on the sea had now long passed, and we were all desperate to get back on land. I had always had a deep interest and curiosity about China, that went back to my childhood, so I was extremely excited to catch a glimpse of the land.
Finally, many Chinese boats and ships started to appear with more frequency, and then a spur of land came on to the horizon. We cruised slowly towards it. After what seemed like hours, we were very soon sailing into Shanghai harbour.
We disembarked, stepped out of immigration and on to the fascinating, polluted streets of one of the world's great cities, knowing that a return voyage was awaiting us at the end of the trip.
October 20, 2006
A Night At The Movies In Dharamsala
Perched high up in the Indian Himalaya, is the small enclave of Dharamsala. Dharamsala and its neighbouring township McCleod Ganj, is home to a thriving community of Tibetan exiles, including His Holiness, The Dalai Lama.
To reach this bastion of Tibetan Buddhism, the traveller is required to take transport up a winding, treacherous mountain road, that leaves little room for oncoming traffic.
On arrival, it becomes apparent that this is a place unlike any other in India. Everywhere are monks and nuns, clad in their maroon and saphron-coloured robes, wandering about doing their daily business. There are also many backpackers, attracted by the spiritual promise.
One evening, my friend and I decided that we would entertain ourselves by visiting the local cinema. Now, by cinema, I do not mean a multiplex, but rather a tiny room at the back of a food store, that had seating for only 12 people.
We purchased our tickets and took our seats, staring at the regular sized television set that was sat in front of us. The presentation for the evening was The Replacement Killers, with Mira Sorvino and Chow Yun-Fat; an extremely average film with lots of shooting and chasing.
The highlight of the evening came not from the film, but from watching some of our companions in the "cinema". Sat in front of us, were four Buddhist monks, who seemed entranced by the movie. Each time there was an action sequence, they leaned closer to the television, obviously gripped by the high jinks before them. There was enormous novelty to be had from witnessing this incongruous clash of culture, tradition and modernity.
To reach this bastion of Tibetan Buddhism, the traveller is required to take transport up a winding, treacherous mountain road, that leaves little room for oncoming traffic.
On arrival, it becomes apparent that this is a place unlike any other in India. Everywhere are monks and nuns, clad in their maroon and saphron-coloured robes, wandering about doing their daily business. There are also many backpackers, attracted by the spiritual promise.
One evening, my friend and I decided that we would entertain ourselves by visiting the local cinema. Now, by cinema, I do not mean a multiplex, but rather a tiny room at the back of a food store, that had seating for only 12 people.
We purchased our tickets and took our seats, staring at the regular sized television set that was sat in front of us. The presentation for the evening was The Replacement Killers, with Mira Sorvino and Chow Yun-Fat; an extremely average film with lots of shooting and chasing.
The highlight of the evening came not from the film, but from watching some of our companions in the "cinema". Sat in front of us, were four Buddhist monks, who seemed entranced by the movie. Each time there was an action sequence, they leaned closer to the television, obviously gripped by the high jinks before them. There was enormous novelty to be had from witnessing this incongruous clash of culture, tradition and modernity.
October 03, 2006
Durian - The King Of Fruits...And Smells
The first time I tried Durian was in Vietnam. I had heard a lot about this fruit, and it was inevitable that some day I would get an opportunity to satisfy my curiosity.A cyclo-driver, who became a friend, quickly managed to locate a Durian for me. The hard outer casing of the fruit is covered in spines, and watching my friend go to work with a large knife, concerned me no end, as it seemed very likely that a finger would be removed sooner than the skin of the fruit.
I found myself jolting each time the blade struck, expecting a scream to follow, as well as an emergency visit to the local hospital, where a detached digit in ice could be reattached! I wondered what the statistics were for Durian accidents in Southeast Asia.
Finally, my friend managed to break through, and a strong smell of vomit started to permeate the air. Durian is infamous for its odour. For those not initiated, the smell can often cause such a revulsion that the very idea of eating it becomes an unlikely proposition indeed. However, those brave enough to open their mouths and ingest the inner fruit, will find the taste very different from the smell. The yellow flesh inside is sweet and tastes more like a rich custard, rather than the discharge of an underage drinker.
Since that first encounter, Durian is a fruit that I always track down when I am in its geographical location. It comes highly recommended. If the fruit's smell seems overwhelming, then try some of Thailand's Durian flavoured chips; they smell like vomit and taste like...well...vomit.
Photography and Story by El-Branden Brazil
August 18, 2006
August 17, 2006
A JOURNEY TO EGYPT: The Anthology
Here is a set of links for all my reports from Egypt in chronological order:
Part One - Royal Mummies, Priceless Treasures & A Weird Pharoah
Part Two - Pyramids & Tombs
Part Three - The Mighty Abu Simbel
Part Four - Sailing Upon The Nile
Part Five - Luxor, Temples & Tombs
Part Six - An Ascent Of Mount Sinai
Part Seven - Journey's End
August 15, 2006
A JOURNEY TO EGYPT: Part Seven - Journey's End
After recovering from my trek of Mount Sinai, I felt it was time to leave sleepy Dahab and return to Cairo. I took the 8:30 bus in the morning, spending most of the eight hour journey either dozing off or viewing the desolate desert landscape outside.
When I arrived in Cairo, I immediately settled into the Dahab Hotel, which was recommended to me by my Dutch friends. It is a strange hotel, located at the top of a very high building. The rooms are very basic, but at $4 a night, luxury is not to be expected. The management was extremely helpful and I would certainly stay there again when I return to Egypt in the future.
Being back in Cairo, I could not resist a third visit to the magnificent Egyptian Museum. As luck should have it, on August 6th, a new royal mummies room was opened, displaying such pharaohs as Ramses III and Ramses IV for the very first time. I spent almost an entire day exploring the museum and discovering delights I had missed on my previous visits.
In the evening, I was reunited with my Dutch friends, and we spent time chatting with fellow travellers at the hotel. They were a very interesting group of individuals. One traveller had just spent five weeks in Sudan, while another had just travelled in Afghanistan. Both had interesting adventures to share. A Japanese archaeologist, who specialises in Pre-Dynastic Egyptology, and who happens to live very close to my home in Japan, also joined us.
I had one more day left in Egypt and there was no question that it would be spent revisiting the Pyramids of Giza. Again, when I approached the site, I was absolutely stunned by the beauty and majesty of the place. It is truly like nowhere else on Earth.
I once again entered Khufu's Pyramid and spent time within it, trying to absorb some of the magic that radiates throughout. I also entered Khafra's Pyramid, which was equally impressive. Unlike Khufu's, the visitor is required to descend a long narrow passageway, and then walk through a handsome square tunnel towards the main chamber that houses the sarcophagus. Rather interestingly, the name Giovanni Belzoni is written on the wall. This 19th Century graffiti was the handiwork of the famous Italian adventurer, who discovered the tomb of Seti I among many other finds.
After six hours baking under the hot desert sun, I decided it was time to say a fond farewell to the Sphinx and the Pyramids. I am certain that I will return one day.
My journey to Egypt has been everything I wanted it to be and more. I saw places that had been in my imagination since childhood. I got to experience the tranquil life of the people who live on the Nile. And I climbed Moses' Mountain. I also made new friends, who I will remain in contact with.
Visit SPIRIT for my photography from Egypt.
When I arrived in Cairo, I immediately settled into the Dahab Hotel, which was recommended to me by my Dutch friends. It is a strange hotel, located at the top of a very high building. The rooms are very basic, but at $4 a night, luxury is not to be expected. The management was extremely helpful and I would certainly stay there again when I return to Egypt in the future.
Being back in Cairo, I could not resist a third visit to the magnificent Egyptian Museum. As luck should have it, on August 6th, a new royal mummies room was opened, displaying such pharaohs as Ramses III and Ramses IV for the very first time. I spent almost an entire day exploring the museum and discovering delights I had missed on my previous visits.
In the evening, I was reunited with my Dutch friends, and we spent time chatting with fellow travellers at the hotel. They were a very interesting group of individuals. One traveller had just spent five weeks in Sudan, while another had just travelled in Afghanistan. Both had interesting adventures to share. A Japanese archaeologist, who specialises in Pre-Dynastic Egyptology, and who happens to live very close to my home in Japan, also joined us.
I had one more day left in Egypt and there was no question that it would be spent revisiting the Pyramids of Giza. Again, when I approached the site, I was absolutely stunned by the beauty and majesty of the place. It is truly like nowhere else on Earth.
I once again entered Khufu's Pyramid and spent time within it, trying to absorb some of the magic that radiates throughout. I also entered Khafra's Pyramid, which was equally impressive. Unlike Khufu's, the visitor is required to descend a long narrow passageway, and then walk through a handsome square tunnel towards the main chamber that houses the sarcophagus. Rather interestingly, the name Giovanni Belzoni is written on the wall. This 19th Century graffiti was the handiwork of the famous Italian adventurer, who discovered the tomb of Seti I among many other finds.
After six hours baking under the hot desert sun, I decided it was time to say a fond farewell to the Sphinx and the Pyramids. I am certain that I will return one day.
My journey to Egypt has been everything I wanted it to be and more. I saw places that had been in my imagination since childhood. I got to experience the tranquil life of the people who live on the Nile. And I climbed Moses' Mountain. I also made new friends, who I will remain in contact with.
Visit SPIRIT for my photography from Egypt.
August 08, 2006
A JOURNEY TO EGYPT: Part Six - An Ascent Of Mount Sinai
The 18 hour journey from Luxor to Dahab was excruciating. Not only was there very little leg room or chance to sleep properly overnight, I was also positioned next to the toilet, which would frequently release a waft of stale urine.
During the journey, armed police repeatedly stopped the bus at checkpoints. This vigilance, especially on the Sinai Peninsula, has increased after the heinous terrorist attacks that hit the towns of Sharm El Sheik and Dahab in 2005 and 2006. The area is still trying to recover its lost tourist industry as a result, so the police are doing everything possible to reduce the chances of further attacks.
At long last, the bus arrived at Dahab. It could not have come sooner, as my legs now felt as if they had all the mobility of two lumps of wood. I hobbled my way off the bus, gasping at urine-free fresh air.
On the bus, I had quickly befriended a charming Dutch couple. Together, we decided to avoid the touts and take a taxi downtown. We managed to get rooms at the Seventh Heaven, which is run by extremely friendly and welcoming management.
Dahab is a charming retreat that has a long history of being a Bedouin fishing town. In recent decades, the coastline has been developed for tourism. The bay area is now lined with many restaurants and guesthouses.
With the rugged red mountains that surround the town, and the clear blue Red Sea that laps at its shores, it is indeed a pleasant place to kick back. Rather tantalisingly, the coastline of Saudi Arabia is but a short boat ride away. However, gaining access to Saudi Arabia is difficult and unlikely from this side.
The past few days, I have felt myself enter into a euphoric slumber, as days have been spent watching the waves splash gently against the coastline. Efforts to consider my future have fallen short as I have found my mind neither willing or concerned to think about the changes needed to improve my circumstances. I have become a beach bum, and I have decided to accept this short-term fate for as long as it lasts, until I must return to Cairo.
However, I did not come to Sinai to sit on the beach. In fact, my reason was to scale Mount Sinai, which is 2,285 metres and famous because it is where Moses received the Ten Commandments from God.
I organised a driver to take me to the mountain from Dahab. We left at 11 o'clock in the evening, and after a two hour journey, arrived at the base of the mountain. In the darkness, I began my trek with a Bedouin guide.
Throughout the night, a bright moon shone high above, so there was some light to illuminate the path. We zigzagged gently upwards, and I could just about make out the jagged, violent landscape that surrounded me. The trek was not as strenuous as I had expected. Many foreigners on pilgrimages passed me by or fell behind. While some pilgrims mounted upon camels sang Christian hymns, the valley below was often reverberating with Bedouin calls to Allah.
As I climbed higher, the stars seemed to multiply continually, until every patch of black became a festoon of light.
Finally, we reached a point where my guide would no longer accompany me. The rest of the trek consisted of a challenging climb up what seemed like an endless staircase of ragged rocky steps. After an exhausting last push, I finally reached the summit at 3:30 a.m.
I made myself comfortable, and wrapped up in a blanket I rented from a Bedouin boy. For a chilly hour, I found myself drifting into a dream state on Moses' Mountain, with the stars dancing infinitely above me. As soon as I seemed to enter a deep slumber, I was alerted that the sun was about to rise.
Gradually, the dark blackness shifted into blue tones that very soon were contrasted with yellow and then orange. The surrounding mountains, which had been faint ghosts, slowly materialised as the light brightened. After half an hour watching this scene unravel, cirrus clouds that had once been hidden, were now bathed in a pink iridescence. It was only a matter of moments more, before the burning sun appeared protected from behind a distant broken peak. With graceful poise it silently glided to its rightful place.
With the return of daylight, I could now see the scenery that surrounded this holy place. For as far as I could see, a landscape of bleak desert peaks lay before me. The scene showed Nature at her most inhospitable. Yet, like a thorn bush that flowers, it was also Nature at her most beautiful.
After some time appreciating the views, it was time to descend. Rather than taking the same route down, I chose to follow the 3,750 Steps of Penitence, which were hewn out of rock by monks. The descent was far harder on the body than the ascent had been, with every judder of each step taking its toll. The sun was also now fiercely cooking the desert air.
Coming out of a small canyon, I could now make out the compound of St. Katherine's Monastery below. As an hour passed, I finally reached the white walls of the monastery.
St Katherine's was commissioned by the Roman Emperor Justinian, between 527 and 565 A.D. It is the oldest functioning monastery in the world, and is now home to 26 Greek Orthodox monks. Within its guarded walls, are some of the Christendom’s most important and precious items. It also houses a library only superseded by that of the Vatican.
Of interest to the faithful, the monastery claims to be built on the site where Moses saw the Burning Bush. Contentiously, a tangled bush that hangs in one of the courtyards is said to be the same bush of biblical fame. Like the location of Moses' mountain itself, it is easy to be sceptical to such claims. However, even the staunchest sceptic visitor must have a "what if it is?" playing at the back of their mind. There is much to be had from letting the mind accept a little magic from time to time.
Part Seven Coming Soon!
During the journey, armed police repeatedly stopped the bus at checkpoints. This vigilance, especially on the Sinai Peninsula, has increased after the heinous terrorist attacks that hit the towns of Sharm El Sheik and Dahab in 2005 and 2006. The area is still trying to recover its lost tourist industry as a result, so the police are doing everything possible to reduce the chances of further attacks.
At long last, the bus arrived at Dahab. It could not have come sooner, as my legs now felt as if they had all the mobility of two lumps of wood. I hobbled my way off the bus, gasping at urine-free fresh air.
On the bus, I had quickly befriended a charming Dutch couple. Together, we decided to avoid the touts and take a taxi downtown. We managed to get rooms at the Seventh Heaven, which is run by extremely friendly and welcoming management.
Dahab is a charming retreat that has a long history of being a Bedouin fishing town. In recent decades, the coastline has been developed for tourism. The bay area is now lined with many restaurants and guesthouses.
With the rugged red mountains that surround the town, and the clear blue Red Sea that laps at its shores, it is indeed a pleasant place to kick back. Rather tantalisingly, the coastline of Saudi Arabia is but a short boat ride away. However, gaining access to Saudi Arabia is difficult and unlikely from this side.
The past few days, I have felt myself enter into a euphoric slumber, as days have been spent watching the waves splash gently against the coastline. Efforts to consider my future have fallen short as I have found my mind neither willing or concerned to think about the changes needed to improve my circumstances. I have become a beach bum, and I have decided to accept this short-term fate for as long as it lasts, until I must return to Cairo.
However, I did not come to Sinai to sit on the beach. In fact, my reason was to scale Mount Sinai, which is 2,285 metres and famous because it is where Moses received the Ten Commandments from God.
I organised a driver to take me to the mountain from Dahab. We left at 11 o'clock in the evening, and after a two hour journey, arrived at the base of the mountain. In the darkness, I began my trek with a Bedouin guide.
Throughout the night, a bright moon shone high above, so there was some light to illuminate the path. We zigzagged gently upwards, and I could just about make out the jagged, violent landscape that surrounded me. The trek was not as strenuous as I had expected. Many foreigners on pilgrimages passed me by or fell behind. While some pilgrims mounted upon camels sang Christian hymns, the valley below was often reverberating with Bedouin calls to Allah.
As I climbed higher, the stars seemed to multiply continually, until every patch of black became a festoon of light.
Finally, we reached a point where my guide would no longer accompany me. The rest of the trek consisted of a challenging climb up what seemed like an endless staircase of ragged rocky steps. After an exhausting last push, I finally reached the summit at 3:30 a.m.
I made myself comfortable, and wrapped up in a blanket I rented from a Bedouin boy. For a chilly hour, I found myself drifting into a dream state on Moses' Mountain, with the stars dancing infinitely above me. As soon as I seemed to enter a deep slumber, I was alerted that the sun was about to rise.
Gradually, the dark blackness shifted into blue tones that very soon were contrasted with yellow and then orange. The surrounding mountains, which had been faint ghosts, slowly materialised as the light brightened. After half an hour watching this scene unravel, cirrus clouds that had once been hidden, were now bathed in a pink iridescence. It was only a matter of moments more, before the burning sun appeared protected from behind a distant broken peak. With graceful poise it silently glided to its rightful place.
With the return of daylight, I could now see the scenery that surrounded this holy place. For as far as I could see, a landscape of bleak desert peaks lay before me. The scene showed Nature at her most inhospitable. Yet, like a thorn bush that flowers, it was also Nature at her most beautiful.
After some time appreciating the views, it was time to descend. Rather than taking the same route down, I chose to follow the 3,750 Steps of Penitence, which were hewn out of rock by monks. The descent was far harder on the body than the ascent had been, with every judder of each step taking its toll. The sun was also now fiercely cooking the desert air.
Coming out of a small canyon, I could now make out the compound of St. Katherine's Monastery below. As an hour passed, I finally reached the white walls of the monastery.
St Katherine's was commissioned by the Roman Emperor Justinian, between 527 and 565 A.D. It is the oldest functioning monastery in the world, and is now home to 26 Greek Orthodox monks. Within its guarded walls, are some of the Christendom’s most important and precious items. It also houses a library only superseded by that of the Vatican.
Of interest to the faithful, the monastery claims to be built on the site where Moses saw the Burning Bush. Contentiously, a tangled bush that hangs in one of the courtyards is said to be the same bush of biblical fame. Like the location of Moses' mountain itself, it is easy to be sceptical to such claims. However, even the staunchest sceptic visitor must have a "what if it is?" playing at the back of their mind. There is much to be had from letting the mind accept a little magic from time to time.
Part Seven Coming Soon!
August 04, 2006
A JOURNEY TO EGYPT: Part Five - Luxor, Temples & Tombs
After a two hour journey from Edfu, my felucca crewmates and I arrived in Luxor. Luxor is a city that fulfills all expectations of the traveller in Egypt, with its narrow maze of streets, dusty roads, hassling touts and coach drivers, sheesha cafes and temples. It has the ambience of a place that truly knows history.
Luxor, or Thebes as it was originally called, was established during the period known as the New Kingdom, when the Egyptians regained control of their lands from foreign rulers, such as the Nubians in the south and the Hyksos in the north. The new Theban pharaohs reunited and expanded their nation outwards in a display of confidence that is entirely highlighted by the grandness and scale of the temples, tombs and statues they commissioned.
After settling into the Nubian Oasis hotel, I decided that it was time for a sloppy, greasy, foul hamburger as a reward for eating falafel, pita bread and soup for three days. I knew exactly where to find such a fast food restaurant: Find the nearest ancient site and one is bound to be in front. At the Pyramids of Giza, a KFC sits conspicuously in front of the main entrance. At the Luxor Temple, it's McDonalds. Yes, the pharaohs would no doubt be proud, just as the Chinese emperors would be, knowing that a Starbucks was now present within the sacrosanct walls of the Forbidden City!
Having gorged myself with a filthy cheeseburger, fries and a large Coke, I visited Luxor Temple. Apart from some parts of the temple remaining intact, most of it is in a noble state of ruin. As I approached the pylon (gateway), I was greeted by two gigantic statues of Ramses II, standing guard against his enemies, the Nubians and Hyksos people, but failing miserably to bring to a standstill the endless stream of camera-clicking tourists.
The temple is dominated by the presence of Ramses II, but it was not a project originated by him. In fact, the temple was commissioned by Hatshepsut and then later expanded by Amunhotep III, as a temple dedicated to the god Amun-Ra.
Visiting the site at twilight is the best time to try and capture some of the magic that was once present within its walls. Dark shadows slowly crawl and creep around the many columns, like wraiths invoked from an ancient slumber. As the light slowly glides away, the imagination grasps for remnants of those long forgotten rituals.
The next day, I decided to walk three kilometres to Karnak - the Temple of Amun. The idea of a gentle stroll along the Nile seemed irresistible, but I soon discovered that the heat was to make this more than challenging. On that particular day, temperatures soared to 46 degrees Celsius. In all my travels, I have never experienced such an intense burning heat. The air seems to scold your oesophagus as you intake it. Constant ingestion of liquids is absolutely vital. I was very surprised at how little I needed to use the toilet, after drinking bottles and bottles of water.
Finally, after a very uncomfortable stroll I reached Karnak - a place that I had wanted to see for most of my life. Immediately it was apparent that the scale of this temple dwarfed that in Luxor. In fact, Karnak covers a staggering area of 1.5 km.
A colonnade of sphinxes accompanied me as I approached the main entrance. Once again, two large statues of Ramses II stood proud. As I looked through the massive gateway and through the hallway beyond, I could see a delightful composition of columns and obelisks awaiting me. As I stepped past the threshold of the main pylon, I found myself within a room whose scale cannot be conveyed in words. Before me, 134 papyrus-shaped pillars reached high above, with symmetry so gracious and exquisite that only someone who has been there can truly understand. I wandered throughout this divine maze of stone in astonishment.
Occasionally, I was amazed to see engraved images on the walls still retaining their vibrant paintwork. Blues, reds, yellows and greens were applied with symbolic precision, so that the gods and their magical tools were imbued with elaborate significance for the worshippers.
I found myself desperately chasing shadowy spaces to avoid the scorching sun above. I took refuge in a chamber called the Sacred Barque Sanctuary, which was originally built by Tuthmosis III, and then later rebuilt in granite by Alexander the Great. For a long few minutes, I chatted with a family from Cyprus, who were also trying to avoid the heat.
Karnak was as impressive as I had hoped, and it made me crave more for a way to travel back in time and see it at its height.
In the evening, I met up with some of my felucca crewmates for a last beer and goodbye. They were an entertaining bunch and a pleasure to share time with. I wish them all the best with their continuing travels.
The next day, I awoke early for a visit to the legendary Valley of the Kings. When approaching the sun-bleached barren landscape, it is hard to imagine why anyone would wish to be buried there. There are several theories; one being that the sun sets on the valley, behind the pyramid-shaped mountain of Al-Qurn.
So far, a total of 62 tombs have been excavated in the valley. Only a small number of tombs are open to the public, due to preservation efforts, safety and further excavation.
Recently, the American archaeologist, Dr Kent Weeks, discovered what is believed to be the tomb of Ramses II’s many sons. His find is being lauded as the most important since Tutankhamun. The excavation is expected to take at least 10 years of continual work to complete, because much of the vast tomb has collapsed.
The first tomb I entered was built for Ramses I, who was the father of Seti I and grandfather to Ramses II. It was a modest tomb, with obligatory scenes of gods on the walls.
Rather interestingly, a mummy now housed in the Luxor Museum is believed to be the remains of Ramses I. The reason for the uncertainty is due to the strange circumstances surrounding it. The mummy had some how managed to find its way into a display of oddities in Niagara, Canada, in the 19th Century. When a visiting Egyptologist recognised the royal posture of the mummy, interest grew and the Michael Carlos Museum in Atlanta bought the mummy for $2 million in 1999.
After much testing, results could not verify whether the mummy was royalty, but many Egyptologists are convinced that it is Ramses I, due to the remarkable facial similarities he shares with Seti I and Ramses II. The mummy was returned to Egypt as a good will gesture, and he now resides in the excellent Luxor Museum.
The second tomb I visited was that of Tuthmosis III. The visitor is required to climb a steep staircase to reach the entrance, as the tomb was strategically placed to foil tomb raiders. Unfortunately, like most of the tombs in the valley, the tomb builders underestimated the robbers.
When you enter the tomb you descend down a long corridor. At the end, you come into a room inscribed with hundreds of images of gods and demigods and supported by two large pillars. The main tomb room beyond is uniquely shaped in an oval shape, to represent a cartouche. Again, images of gods and demigods are painted throughout.
The last tomb I visited was that of Ramses III. This is one of the largest tomb complexes in the valley, with several small antechambers decorated with heavenly scenes. The ceiling is majestically painted blue with hundreds of stars.
As the heat of the valley increased, I headed down to the Temple of Hatshepsut. Hatshepsut was the daughter of Tuthmosis I. She married her half-brother, Tuthmosis II and was the mother of Tuthmosis III. When Tuthmosis II died, she took over power of the nation, because her son was too young to rule. She continued in the role for 20 years, promoting trade with neighbouring nations. It was a particularly peaceful time during the New Kingdom period.
The Temple of Hatshepsut is one of the greatest achievements of the ancient Egyptians. With graceful aesthetics it contrasts radically with the chaotic violence of the dramatic cliffs that surround it. The temple has a large central walkway that leads up to three terraces. Within the temple are sub temples devoted to the goddess Hathor and the god Anubus.
After a brief visit to the Valley Of The Queens, where I visited two modest tombs, I returned to my hotel in need of refreshment and air conditioning, as well as making preparations for the 18 hour bus journey to Dahab on the Sinai Peninsula.
Part Six Coming Soon!
Luxor, or Thebes as it was originally called, was established during the period known as the New Kingdom, when the Egyptians regained control of their lands from foreign rulers, such as the Nubians in the south and the Hyksos in the north. The new Theban pharaohs reunited and expanded their nation outwards in a display of confidence that is entirely highlighted by the grandness and scale of the temples, tombs and statues they commissioned.
After settling into the Nubian Oasis hotel, I decided that it was time for a sloppy, greasy, foul hamburger as a reward for eating falafel, pita bread and soup for three days. I knew exactly where to find such a fast food restaurant: Find the nearest ancient site and one is bound to be in front. At the Pyramids of Giza, a KFC sits conspicuously in front of the main entrance. At the Luxor Temple, it's McDonalds. Yes, the pharaohs would no doubt be proud, just as the Chinese emperors would be, knowing that a Starbucks was now present within the sacrosanct walls of the Forbidden City!
Having gorged myself with a filthy cheeseburger, fries and a large Coke, I visited Luxor Temple. Apart from some parts of the temple remaining intact, most of it is in a noble state of ruin. As I approached the pylon (gateway), I was greeted by two gigantic statues of Ramses II, standing guard against his enemies, the Nubians and Hyksos people, but failing miserably to bring to a standstill the endless stream of camera-clicking tourists.
The temple is dominated by the presence of Ramses II, but it was not a project originated by him. In fact, the temple was commissioned by Hatshepsut and then later expanded by Amunhotep III, as a temple dedicated to the god Amun-Ra.
Visiting the site at twilight is the best time to try and capture some of the magic that was once present within its walls. Dark shadows slowly crawl and creep around the many columns, like wraiths invoked from an ancient slumber. As the light slowly glides away, the imagination grasps for remnants of those long forgotten rituals.
The next day, I decided to walk three kilometres to Karnak - the Temple of Amun. The idea of a gentle stroll along the Nile seemed irresistible, but I soon discovered that the heat was to make this more than challenging. On that particular day, temperatures soared to 46 degrees Celsius. In all my travels, I have never experienced such an intense burning heat. The air seems to scold your oesophagus as you intake it. Constant ingestion of liquids is absolutely vital. I was very surprised at how little I needed to use the toilet, after drinking bottles and bottles of water.
Finally, after a very uncomfortable stroll I reached Karnak - a place that I had wanted to see for most of my life. Immediately it was apparent that the scale of this temple dwarfed that in Luxor. In fact, Karnak covers a staggering area of 1.5 km.
A colonnade of sphinxes accompanied me as I approached the main entrance. Once again, two large statues of Ramses II stood proud. As I looked through the massive gateway and through the hallway beyond, I could see a delightful composition of columns and obelisks awaiting me. As I stepped past the threshold of the main pylon, I found myself within a room whose scale cannot be conveyed in words. Before me, 134 papyrus-shaped pillars reached high above, with symmetry so gracious and exquisite that only someone who has been there can truly understand. I wandered throughout this divine maze of stone in astonishment.
Occasionally, I was amazed to see engraved images on the walls still retaining their vibrant paintwork. Blues, reds, yellows and greens were applied with symbolic precision, so that the gods and their magical tools were imbued with elaborate significance for the worshippers.
I found myself desperately chasing shadowy spaces to avoid the scorching sun above. I took refuge in a chamber called the Sacred Barque Sanctuary, which was originally built by Tuthmosis III, and then later rebuilt in granite by Alexander the Great. For a long few minutes, I chatted with a family from Cyprus, who were also trying to avoid the heat.
Karnak was as impressive as I had hoped, and it made me crave more for a way to travel back in time and see it at its height.
In the evening, I met up with some of my felucca crewmates for a last beer and goodbye. They were an entertaining bunch and a pleasure to share time with. I wish them all the best with their continuing travels.
The next day, I awoke early for a visit to the legendary Valley of the Kings. When approaching the sun-bleached barren landscape, it is hard to imagine why anyone would wish to be buried there. There are several theories; one being that the sun sets on the valley, behind the pyramid-shaped mountain of Al-Qurn.
So far, a total of 62 tombs have been excavated in the valley. Only a small number of tombs are open to the public, due to preservation efforts, safety and further excavation.
Recently, the American archaeologist, Dr Kent Weeks, discovered what is believed to be the tomb of Ramses II’s many sons. His find is being lauded as the most important since Tutankhamun. The excavation is expected to take at least 10 years of continual work to complete, because much of the vast tomb has collapsed.
The first tomb I entered was built for Ramses I, who was the father of Seti I and grandfather to Ramses II. It was a modest tomb, with obligatory scenes of gods on the walls.
Rather interestingly, a mummy now housed in the Luxor Museum is believed to be the remains of Ramses I. The reason for the uncertainty is due to the strange circumstances surrounding it. The mummy had some how managed to find its way into a display of oddities in Niagara, Canada, in the 19th Century. When a visiting Egyptologist recognised the royal posture of the mummy, interest grew and the Michael Carlos Museum in Atlanta bought the mummy for $2 million in 1999.
After much testing, results could not verify whether the mummy was royalty, but many Egyptologists are convinced that it is Ramses I, due to the remarkable facial similarities he shares with Seti I and Ramses II. The mummy was returned to Egypt as a good will gesture, and he now resides in the excellent Luxor Museum.
The second tomb I visited was that of Tuthmosis III. The visitor is required to climb a steep staircase to reach the entrance, as the tomb was strategically placed to foil tomb raiders. Unfortunately, like most of the tombs in the valley, the tomb builders underestimated the robbers.
When you enter the tomb you descend down a long corridor. At the end, you come into a room inscribed with hundreds of images of gods and demigods and supported by two large pillars. The main tomb room beyond is uniquely shaped in an oval shape, to represent a cartouche. Again, images of gods and demigods are painted throughout.
The last tomb I visited was that of Ramses III. This is one of the largest tomb complexes in the valley, with several small antechambers decorated with heavenly scenes. The ceiling is majestically painted blue with hundreds of stars.
As the heat of the valley increased, I headed down to the Temple of Hatshepsut. Hatshepsut was the daughter of Tuthmosis I. She married her half-brother, Tuthmosis II and was the mother of Tuthmosis III. When Tuthmosis II died, she took over power of the nation, because her son was too young to rule. She continued in the role for 20 years, promoting trade with neighbouring nations. It was a particularly peaceful time during the New Kingdom period.
The Temple of Hatshepsut is one of the greatest achievements of the ancient Egyptians. With graceful aesthetics it contrasts radically with the chaotic violence of the dramatic cliffs that surround it. The temple has a large central walkway that leads up to three terraces. Within the temple are sub temples devoted to the goddess Hathor and the god Anubus.
After a brief visit to the Valley Of The Queens, where I visited two modest tombs, I returned to my hotel in need of refreshment and air conditioning, as well as making preparations for the 18 hour bus journey to Dahab on the Sinai Peninsula.
Part Six Coming Soon!
July 31, 2006
A JOURNEY TO EGYPT: Part Four - Sailing Upon The Nile
In Aswan, along the shore of the Nile, it is almost impossible to avoid touts desperately trying to get business for their feluccas. A felucca is a traditional Egyptian sailing vessel. They are a gentle and regular sight upon the Nile, and it seemed to me an appealing option to spend the next few days sailing on one up to the temple of Kom Ombo. With some negotiation, I was able to secure passage for 100 Egyptian Pounds ($16). This included two days and two nights on the river, as well as food and transport up to Luxor.
I arrived at the felucca the following morning at the arranged time, although the actual launch seemed to drag infinitum.
I was extremely relieved to discover that my fellow nine travellers onboard were an interesting and pleasant group from all parts of the world, and that our captain, Mohammed, seemed an experienced and trusting sailor.
After some time, our journey began and we started to cruise up the Nile at a slow, calming pace. Mohammed steered the vessel, so that it zigzagged through the strong current.
It was no time at all before the beers and the conversation was flowing like the mighty river below us. We were all particularly entertained by two of the loveliest American gentlemen, who work as flight attendants for Delta. The stories that they shared with us were hilarious.
I was amazed to learn that flight attendants are just human beings like the rest of us, and that they also have a need to, shall we say, relieve internal gas. They do this using a tried and tested technique that is both silent and efficient, as they push the trolley down the aisle. Rather amusingly, this is termed "crop dusting"!
I am sure that there was plenty of "crop dusting" going onboard our felucca, as some of us had a touch of the Egyptian curse.
We continued meandering up the river, accompanied by a magnificent scene of palm trees and desert horizons. Sporadically, we would pull into the shore for a break and some food. Mohammed prepared basic, but adequate dishes of pita bread, vegetables and soup.
After a night of heavy partying on the sandy shores of the Nile, many of us woke up with very painful heads, brought on by a combination of Tequila, beer and hashish. The tranquil continuation of our journey helped us to recover quickly, as we lay basking in the intense heat of the day.
By the mid afternoon, we were all rather dehydrated, so we welcomed news that we were going to visit a camel bazaar. However, we soon became irritated, when we discovered that we would have to each pay 10 Egyptian Pounds to take a taxi to the camel bazaar. Now, this is not a huge amount of money - only $2 - but when there were nine passengers paying for a short trip, that is a large sum of money in Egypt. We were being taken for a ride both literally and metaphorically.
When we reached the "camel bazaar", it turned out to be a dingy courtyard, with ten very poorly cared for camels. All of us found the situation uncomfortable and bizarre, and requested to leave quickly.
We returned back to the small village where we picked up the taxi, so that we could replenish on water, fizzy drinks, snacks and beer. It was a strange place, where we all felt very uncomfortable and out of place, as locals shouted obviously derogatory comments for their amusement. One boy came up to an Argentinean gentleman in our group and simulated cutting his throat. We were all glad to board our boat and head away from that unfriendly place.
Some cross words were said to Mohammed by some of my fellow travellers, who were overly angry about the price for the taxi and the reason for taking us to that hideous camel bazaar. Personally, I was not that bothered, because it was not so much money and it was another unique experience.
We spent a damp night on an island. By this time, we all looked forward to a cold shower and a good feed.
At 6:30, we all got ready to disembark and say our farewells at the temple ruins of Kom Ombo. There had been some problems with another felucca that joined us, between her captain and two Dutch tourists that were dissatisfied with his behaviour, so this also tempered the mood between our felucca crew and us. We handed our tips and that was the end of our time on the Nile.
For all the little hassles, the felucca trip was a fabulous experience that I would love to do again some time. It was extremely relaxing to lay back and watch the ancient scenery go by, especially with such excellent company as the friends I made onboard.
The ruins of Kom Ombo do not cover such a large area, and were certainly not as impressive as the sites I had seen earlier on the trip. Ptolemy IV, one of the later Greek pharaohs, built Kom Ombo. The temple is dedicated to both Horus and the crocodile god, Sobek. It certainly had some grand features, with large columns, but the temple was not in good condition.
After a short journey by minibus, we reached the town of Edfu. Within this small bustling town is the magnificent Temple of Horus. It was built, like Kom Ombo, 2000 years ago under Ptolemaic rule. In fact, it was Ptolemy III's attempt to replicate the grandeur of the ancient Egyptian pharaohs, who preceded him by two or three thousand years. His attempt clearly succeeded. It is a grand vision that startles the approaching visitor, with its gigantic pylons, engraved with impressive images of Horus and other gods. Within, there is a maze of passageways, columns and antechambers all engraved with beautiful hieroglyphics and godly scenes.
Part Five Coming Soon!
I arrived at the felucca the following morning at the arranged time, although the actual launch seemed to drag infinitum.
I was extremely relieved to discover that my fellow nine travellers onboard were an interesting and pleasant group from all parts of the world, and that our captain, Mohammed, seemed an experienced and trusting sailor.
After some time, our journey began and we started to cruise up the Nile at a slow, calming pace. Mohammed steered the vessel, so that it zigzagged through the strong current.
It was no time at all before the beers and the conversation was flowing like the mighty river below us. We were all particularly entertained by two of the loveliest American gentlemen, who work as flight attendants for Delta. The stories that they shared with us were hilarious.
I was amazed to learn that flight attendants are just human beings like the rest of us, and that they also have a need to, shall we say, relieve internal gas. They do this using a tried and tested technique that is both silent and efficient, as they push the trolley down the aisle. Rather amusingly, this is termed "crop dusting"!
I am sure that there was plenty of "crop dusting" going onboard our felucca, as some of us had a touch of the Egyptian curse.
We continued meandering up the river, accompanied by a magnificent scene of palm trees and desert horizons. Sporadically, we would pull into the shore for a break and some food. Mohammed prepared basic, but adequate dishes of pita bread, vegetables and soup.
After a night of heavy partying on the sandy shores of the Nile, many of us woke up with very painful heads, brought on by a combination of Tequila, beer and hashish. The tranquil continuation of our journey helped us to recover quickly, as we lay basking in the intense heat of the day.
By the mid afternoon, we were all rather dehydrated, so we welcomed news that we were going to visit a camel bazaar. However, we soon became irritated, when we discovered that we would have to each pay 10 Egyptian Pounds to take a taxi to the camel bazaar. Now, this is not a huge amount of money - only $2 - but when there were nine passengers paying for a short trip, that is a large sum of money in Egypt. We were being taken for a ride both literally and metaphorically.
When we reached the "camel bazaar", it turned out to be a dingy courtyard, with ten very poorly cared for camels. All of us found the situation uncomfortable and bizarre, and requested to leave quickly.
We returned back to the small village where we picked up the taxi, so that we could replenish on water, fizzy drinks, snacks and beer. It was a strange place, where we all felt very uncomfortable and out of place, as locals shouted obviously derogatory comments for their amusement. One boy came up to an Argentinean gentleman in our group and simulated cutting his throat. We were all glad to board our boat and head away from that unfriendly place.
Some cross words were said to Mohammed by some of my fellow travellers, who were overly angry about the price for the taxi and the reason for taking us to that hideous camel bazaar. Personally, I was not that bothered, because it was not so much money and it was another unique experience.
We spent a damp night on an island. By this time, we all looked forward to a cold shower and a good feed.
At 6:30, we all got ready to disembark and say our farewells at the temple ruins of Kom Ombo. There had been some problems with another felucca that joined us, between her captain and two Dutch tourists that were dissatisfied with his behaviour, so this also tempered the mood between our felucca crew and us. We handed our tips and that was the end of our time on the Nile.
For all the little hassles, the felucca trip was a fabulous experience that I would love to do again some time. It was extremely relaxing to lay back and watch the ancient scenery go by, especially with such excellent company as the friends I made onboard.
The ruins of Kom Ombo do not cover such a large area, and were certainly not as impressive as the sites I had seen earlier on the trip. Ptolemy IV, one of the later Greek pharaohs, built Kom Ombo. The temple is dedicated to both Horus and the crocodile god, Sobek. It certainly had some grand features, with large columns, but the temple was not in good condition.
After a short journey by minibus, we reached the town of Edfu. Within this small bustling town is the magnificent Temple of Horus. It was built, like Kom Ombo, 2000 years ago under Ptolemaic rule. In fact, it was Ptolemy III's attempt to replicate the grandeur of the ancient Egyptian pharaohs, who preceded him by two or three thousand years. His attempt clearly succeeded. It is a grand vision that startles the approaching visitor, with its gigantic pylons, engraved with impressive images of Horus and other gods. Within, there is a maze of passageways, columns and antechambers all engraved with beautiful hieroglyphics and godly scenes.
Part Five Coming Soon!
July 27, 2006
A JOURNEY TO EGYPT: Part Three - The Mighty Abu Simbel
During my time in Cairo, I stayed at the excellent Windsor Hotel. It is a hotel of charm and atmosphere, as it was originally built for the king of Egypt as a bathhouse and a harem for his many wives. Later, when the British colonised Egypt, it became the British Officers' Club. The hotel seems like it has been trapped in a bygone era, with its antique elevator, old-fashioned dial telephones and wonderfully ambient bar.
After checking out of the Windsor, I started my journey south to Upper Egypt, as the Egyptians have always called it. I arranged passage on a sleeper train, which was extremely clean, modern and comfortable. I shared my cabin with an interesting Norwegian gentleman, who shared many tales about his experiments with a vast array of hallucinogenic plants and substances.
Throughout the night I travelled south, waking up at six o'clock to find that the train was still accompanied by the mighty Nile River, and the desert that surrounds it forever in the distance. After another couple of hours, I arrived in Aswan.
I had feared that there would be the usual hassles with touts and taxi drivers, all plying their own tours and hotels. However, to my surprise, the taxi driver I selected from the vast number at the station took me directly to the Hotel Hathor, which I considered perhaps the best choice in the budget section of my guidebook. After settling into my rather humble room, I spent the rest of the day enjoying tranquil Aswan, which has turned out to be another one of those world refuges where one can escape from the hurly-burly of life.
In the evening, I sat alone in a restaurant that floats upon the Nile. As the twilight turned to night, a slight crescent moon slowly sank behind the shadow of the desert hills, and the stars punctured through the dark fabric sky. Accompanying this exotic scene were the chirpings of insects and the croaks of frogs; sounds that the pharaohs of ancient times would have heard.
Having finished my excellent meal, which was mushroom soup, Aswan fish cooked in a lemon sauce and served with rice, as well as the obligatory bottles of beer, I headed back to my hotel, in preparation for my trip to the legendary Abu Simbel. I was surprised to find the streets of Aswan bustling with people partying and strolling the Nile promenade. It occurred to me that the torturous heat of the daytime keeps people in, and that perhaps the people of Aswan are nocturnal creatures who thrive best under the cooler air of the night.
Amazingly, I was out of bed at three o'clock in the morning, ready for the three hour journey to the Sudanese border and Abu Simbel. A group of Koreans and a few Europeans also joined me in the very cramped minibus. I found myself drowsing off and awakening to the sound of my own horrendous snoring, which embarrassed me and no doubt disturbed the others!
I knew that we had arrived at Abu Simbel, because the large man-made mountain that houses the temple jutted out on the shores of the Aswan reservoir. The ancient site was moved from its original location in the 1970s, because of massive flooding caused by the construction of the Aswan dam. Many ancient sites were sacrificed in the process of constructing this tamer of water, but luckily some thought wisely to protect what is one of the great marvels of the ancient world.
Following a path round the fake mountain, two large heads appeared over a ridge. As I moved further round, a staggering sight of three colossal statues of Ramses II were revealed. A fourth statue sits worn down by the anguish of time. Yet, its destroyed features accompany the others as a reminder of the passing of time, like the scars accumulated by a warrior who has seen his fair share of conflict.
Jostling coach loads of tourists quickly followed me, and it was difficult to find a photographic composition that had not been taken by everyone else, like so many sites in Egypt.
The interior of the temple was far larger and grander than I had expected. I had thought that it was just a narrow passageway that led to an inner sanctum. In fact, the temple within is vast, with lots of antechambers. Every wall and column was marked with beautiful, deep hieroglyphics and images displaying Ramses' greatest battles, as well as scenes of the ancient pharaoh giving offerings to the various gods and goddesses.
I was interested to see how frequently blue lilies were offered. Blue lilies, which are now extremely rare today, were an important plant for creating a stimulant elixir that was popular among the ancient Egyptians.
Some of the images were particularly violent, with Ramses holding the heads of defeated enemy soldiers. In every image, the pharaoh looked proud, dominant and heroic. I was particularly impressed by a striking image of him standing in a chariot with a fierce, noble poise. And to think, that my own eyes had stared upon this man's mummified remains in the Egyptian Museum.
Nearby Ramses' temple is a smaller one dedicated to his main wife, Queen Nefertari. It is less grand, and is also a showpiece for Ramses' ego, and features many scenes of the queen with the gods.
On our arduous return to Aswan, our driver was not a particularly pleasant man, who spent the entire time racing against other tour buses and driving like a crazy man. I pointed out with a clear use of the "F" word that he was behaving stupidly. He grunted and slowed down. If you ever come to Aswan, make sure that you do not reserve a daytrip with small-scale cowboys, as I did. It may cost a few dollars more, but book at the Thomas Cook office in town, so that you can have a comfortable bus, and a driver who does not aspire to be Michael Schumacher!
In the early afternoon, I took a boat to the small island of Agilkia, where stands the grand Temple of Philae, which was also moved from its original location. I did not know what to expect, but suddenly as we approached the island a beautiful, majestic collection of buildings manifested. The temple was dedicated to the worship of the goddess, Isis, who became a popular deity even during the time of the later Romans. The temple was built around 690 BC, and remained a site of worship until 550 AD.
Strolling around the large courtyards and columned corridors, it is impossible to not feel deep admiration for the ancient Egyptians. Their culture was as rich and as complex as any today, full of struggles and pleasures, as well as battles of ideology.
After checking out of the Windsor, I started my journey south to Upper Egypt, as the Egyptians have always called it. I arranged passage on a sleeper train, which was extremely clean, modern and comfortable. I shared my cabin with an interesting Norwegian gentleman, who shared many tales about his experiments with a vast array of hallucinogenic plants and substances.
Throughout the night I travelled south, waking up at six o'clock to find that the train was still accompanied by the mighty Nile River, and the desert that surrounds it forever in the distance. After another couple of hours, I arrived in Aswan.
I had feared that there would be the usual hassles with touts and taxi drivers, all plying their own tours and hotels. However, to my surprise, the taxi driver I selected from the vast number at the station took me directly to the Hotel Hathor, which I considered perhaps the best choice in the budget section of my guidebook. After settling into my rather humble room, I spent the rest of the day enjoying tranquil Aswan, which has turned out to be another one of those world refuges where one can escape from the hurly-burly of life.
In the evening, I sat alone in a restaurant that floats upon the Nile. As the twilight turned to night, a slight crescent moon slowly sank behind the shadow of the desert hills, and the stars punctured through the dark fabric sky. Accompanying this exotic scene were the chirpings of insects and the croaks of frogs; sounds that the pharaohs of ancient times would have heard.
Having finished my excellent meal, which was mushroom soup, Aswan fish cooked in a lemon sauce and served with rice, as well as the obligatory bottles of beer, I headed back to my hotel, in preparation for my trip to the legendary Abu Simbel. I was surprised to find the streets of Aswan bustling with people partying and strolling the Nile promenade. It occurred to me that the torturous heat of the daytime keeps people in, and that perhaps the people of Aswan are nocturnal creatures who thrive best under the cooler air of the night.
Amazingly, I was out of bed at three o'clock in the morning, ready for the three hour journey to the Sudanese border and Abu Simbel. A group of Koreans and a few Europeans also joined me in the very cramped minibus. I found myself drowsing off and awakening to the sound of my own horrendous snoring, which embarrassed me and no doubt disturbed the others!
I knew that we had arrived at Abu Simbel, because the large man-made mountain that houses the temple jutted out on the shores of the Aswan reservoir. The ancient site was moved from its original location in the 1970s, because of massive flooding caused by the construction of the Aswan dam. Many ancient sites were sacrificed in the process of constructing this tamer of water, but luckily some thought wisely to protect what is one of the great marvels of the ancient world.
Following a path round the fake mountain, two large heads appeared over a ridge. As I moved further round, a staggering sight of three colossal statues of Ramses II were revealed. A fourth statue sits worn down by the anguish of time. Yet, its destroyed features accompany the others as a reminder of the passing of time, like the scars accumulated by a warrior who has seen his fair share of conflict.
Jostling coach loads of tourists quickly followed me, and it was difficult to find a photographic composition that had not been taken by everyone else, like so many sites in Egypt.
The interior of the temple was far larger and grander than I had expected. I had thought that it was just a narrow passageway that led to an inner sanctum. In fact, the temple within is vast, with lots of antechambers. Every wall and column was marked with beautiful, deep hieroglyphics and images displaying Ramses' greatest battles, as well as scenes of the ancient pharaoh giving offerings to the various gods and goddesses.
I was interested to see how frequently blue lilies were offered. Blue lilies, which are now extremely rare today, were an important plant for creating a stimulant elixir that was popular among the ancient Egyptians.
Some of the images were particularly violent, with Ramses holding the heads of defeated enemy soldiers. In every image, the pharaoh looked proud, dominant and heroic. I was particularly impressed by a striking image of him standing in a chariot with a fierce, noble poise. And to think, that my own eyes had stared upon this man's mummified remains in the Egyptian Museum.
Nearby Ramses' temple is a smaller one dedicated to his main wife, Queen Nefertari. It is less grand, and is also a showpiece for Ramses' ego, and features many scenes of the queen with the gods.
On our arduous return to Aswan, our driver was not a particularly pleasant man, who spent the entire time racing against other tour buses and driving like a crazy man. I pointed out with a clear use of the "F" word that he was behaving stupidly. He grunted and slowed down. If you ever come to Aswan, make sure that you do not reserve a daytrip with small-scale cowboys, as I did. It may cost a few dollars more, but book at the Thomas Cook office in town, so that you can have a comfortable bus, and a driver who does not aspire to be Michael Schumacher!
In the early afternoon, I took a boat to the small island of Agilkia, where stands the grand Temple of Philae, which was also moved from its original location. I did not know what to expect, but suddenly as we approached the island a beautiful, majestic collection of buildings manifested. The temple was dedicated to the worship of the goddess, Isis, who became a popular deity even during the time of the later Romans. The temple was built around 690 BC, and remained a site of worship until 550 AD.
Strolling around the large courtyards and columned corridors, it is impossible to not feel deep admiration for the ancient Egyptians. Their culture was as rich and as complex as any today, full of struggles and pleasures, as well as battles of ideology.
Part 4 Coming Soon
July 26, 2006
A JOURNEY TO EGYPT: Part Two - Pyramids & Tombs
I don't wish to go into to many details regarding my outstanding visits to the pyramids in Giza, Saqqara and Dashur at this time, as I would like to write a fuller account of what I saw at the sites, accompanied by my photography. However, I will offer my first impressions.
Waking early in the morning, my rotund driver, Said, who had a constantly sniffling nose and a deep regular wheeze, picked me up for my first visit to an Egyptian pyramid. He is an extremely jolly man with a very affable demeanor.
We seem to hit it off straight away, and quickly our conversation deteriorated to that standard chat between men. He gave me several insights into the sexual benefits that can be had from eating various meats. For example, Said revealed to me that if a woman eats camel meat, she would gain a breast line that is not only large, but also very firm. When I heard this "secret" from my friend Said, it instantly occurred to me that if this "secret" should be revealed to the world, perhaps almost instantaneously, the plastic surgery industry would collapse and large bras would become the norm.
Said offered me yet another "secret" that could also have a massive impact on Viagra. To my great surprise, he informed me that eating not one, but two pigeons helped to increase a man's virile prowess. I asked what would happen if six were consumed and he just laughed in response.
As our conversations veered of into the bizarre and hilarious, he would inadvertently stop off at various small shops on the way, kindly buying me such delights as sugar cane water, falafel and koshari - a wonderful vegetarian dish that comprises of soft macaroni, short spaghetti, dried onions, beans, lentils and a spicy tomato sauce. Highly recommend to all visitors to Egypt.
Finally, as we left the banks of the Nile and the desert replaced the view of fig trees and other crops, the site of Zoser's Stepped Pyramid came into sight. Since childhood, I had looked at images of this site in many, many books and articles, and at last, I could see it with my own eyes. For some reason, I had expected it to be smaller, but it was far grander than I had imagined, surrounded by a temple complex and two other derelict and crumbling pyramids nearby.
Zoser's Pyramid is the oldest standing stone structure in the world, built over 5000 years ago, and while it does not retain the aesthetic beauty of the Giza Pyramids, it was from this experiment in architecture that was to lead to the construction of all other Pyramids.
I spent two hours in Saqqara, enjoying the ambience, and determinedly trying to avoid the various "guides" that harass for a few Egyptian pounds.
After Saqqara, we moved on to Giza. I had heard of people being disappointed by the Great Pyramids, but I really cannot understand how that is possible. Approaching the site from the bustling nearby town is something that will remain with me forever. Not since I first saw Angkor Wat, have I felt so emotionally moved by such a sight.
Standing guard with a proud silence sits the Sphinx, as she/he has done so for centuries. Behind, the three giant pyramids stand like sunrays fossilised in stone; each with their own charm and character. Khafra's Pyramid is particularly stirring, because some of the original limestone covering remains at its apex.
I spent time avoiding the crowds and soaking up the great history that surrounded me. After wandering for an hour under the intense desert sun, I purchased a ticket to enter the King's Chamber in Khufu's Pyramid. As stated in a previous post on this site, I was enthused to visit a place where my hero, Aleister Crowley and Napoleon had both had strange mystical experiences.
After climbing for several metres up the pyramid, I finally came to a small entrance with a passageway leading within. After a short walk, a closed off passageway to a chamber below appeared on my left. I continued straight ahead to a steep incline upwards through a very narrow, claustrophobic passageway, which requires the visitor to uncomfortably crouch all the way up.
At the top of the passageway, it opened up to another passageway with a grand and very high ceiling. Ahead was a narrow corridor to the so-called Queen's Chamber, but this was closed. So further I climbed up towards the King's chamber, finally reaching the grand, extremely humid empty room. The only thing that occupied it, apart from a few very, very hot tourists, was a damaged granite sarcophagus.
On one of the walls is also the famous vent that retains a secret yet to be answered. The tiny vent was explored via a robot mounted with a camera. After some time, the robot came to a small portcullis door. What lay beyond tantalised the archaeological teams. After a yearlong wait for permission, the scientists were allowed to send up another robot, which would this time break pass the door. The robot succeeded, but to the amazement of everyone, it discovered yet another door! At this present time, there is a lot of speculation as to what lies beyond. Until it has been breached the mystery will continue.
The following day was spent in Cairo rearranging my flight back to Tokyo. After this was done, I returned to the Egyptian Museum for a more relaxed visit, returning to exhibits that particularly attracted me.
The next day, I visited the Pyramids of Dashur. These structures are close to those of Saqqara, and they continue to show the development of the pyramid builders. In the distance, and closed to the public, because it stands on a military training ground, is the enigmatic Bent Pyramid. It gets its name due to the fact that the pyramid changes angle rather suddenly half way up. Unlike many of the other pyramids, it still largely retains its limestone casing.
Nearby, is the Red Pyramid. This is the first true pyramidal structure in the world, and equals the pyramids of Giza. Tourists seldom visit the Red Pyramid, so it is a place of tranquility compared to the Pyramids in Giza. It is also possible to enter it, and climb down a very long and narrow passage into its heart. The smell of bat urine is quite overpowering.
After this visit, I then explored the cloistered streets of old Coptic Cairo, which is dotted with various churches of different denominations, as well as mosques and one of the oldest synagogues in Egypt. A fascinating place imbued with much charm.
Part 3 Coming Shortly
Waking early in the morning, my rotund driver, Said, who had a constantly sniffling nose and a deep regular wheeze, picked me up for my first visit to an Egyptian pyramid. He is an extremely jolly man with a very affable demeanor.
We seem to hit it off straight away, and quickly our conversation deteriorated to that standard chat between men. He gave me several insights into the sexual benefits that can be had from eating various meats. For example, Said revealed to me that if a woman eats camel meat, she would gain a breast line that is not only large, but also very firm. When I heard this "secret" from my friend Said, it instantly occurred to me that if this "secret" should be revealed to the world, perhaps almost instantaneously, the plastic surgery industry would collapse and large bras would become the norm.
Said offered me yet another "secret" that could also have a massive impact on Viagra. To my great surprise, he informed me that eating not one, but two pigeons helped to increase a man's virile prowess. I asked what would happen if six were consumed and he just laughed in response.
As our conversations veered of into the bizarre and hilarious, he would inadvertently stop off at various small shops on the way, kindly buying me such delights as sugar cane water, falafel and koshari - a wonderful vegetarian dish that comprises of soft macaroni, short spaghetti, dried onions, beans, lentils and a spicy tomato sauce. Highly recommend to all visitors to Egypt.
Finally, as we left the banks of the Nile and the desert replaced the view of fig trees and other crops, the site of Zoser's Stepped Pyramid came into sight. Since childhood, I had looked at images of this site in many, many books and articles, and at last, I could see it with my own eyes. For some reason, I had expected it to be smaller, but it was far grander than I had imagined, surrounded by a temple complex and two other derelict and crumbling pyramids nearby.
Zoser's Pyramid is the oldest standing stone structure in the world, built over 5000 years ago, and while it does not retain the aesthetic beauty of the Giza Pyramids, it was from this experiment in architecture that was to lead to the construction of all other Pyramids.
I spent two hours in Saqqara, enjoying the ambience, and determinedly trying to avoid the various "guides" that harass for a few Egyptian pounds.
After Saqqara, we moved on to Giza. I had heard of people being disappointed by the Great Pyramids, but I really cannot understand how that is possible. Approaching the site from the bustling nearby town is something that will remain with me forever. Not since I first saw Angkor Wat, have I felt so emotionally moved by such a sight.
Standing guard with a proud silence sits the Sphinx, as she/he has done so for centuries. Behind, the three giant pyramids stand like sunrays fossilised in stone; each with their own charm and character. Khafra's Pyramid is particularly stirring, because some of the original limestone covering remains at its apex.
I spent time avoiding the crowds and soaking up the great history that surrounded me. After wandering for an hour under the intense desert sun, I purchased a ticket to enter the King's Chamber in Khufu's Pyramid. As stated in a previous post on this site, I was enthused to visit a place where my hero, Aleister Crowley and Napoleon had both had strange mystical experiences.
After climbing for several metres up the pyramid, I finally came to a small entrance with a passageway leading within. After a short walk, a closed off passageway to a chamber below appeared on my left. I continued straight ahead to a steep incline upwards through a very narrow, claustrophobic passageway, which requires the visitor to uncomfortably crouch all the way up.
At the top of the passageway, it opened up to another passageway with a grand and very high ceiling. Ahead was a narrow corridor to the so-called Queen's Chamber, but this was closed. So further I climbed up towards the King's chamber, finally reaching the grand, extremely humid empty room. The only thing that occupied it, apart from a few very, very hot tourists, was a damaged granite sarcophagus.
On one of the walls is also the famous vent that retains a secret yet to be answered. The tiny vent was explored via a robot mounted with a camera. After some time, the robot came to a small portcullis door. What lay beyond tantalised the archaeological teams. After a yearlong wait for permission, the scientists were allowed to send up another robot, which would this time break pass the door. The robot succeeded, but to the amazement of everyone, it discovered yet another door! At this present time, there is a lot of speculation as to what lies beyond. Until it has been breached the mystery will continue.
The following day was spent in Cairo rearranging my flight back to Tokyo. After this was done, I returned to the Egyptian Museum for a more relaxed visit, returning to exhibits that particularly attracted me.
The next day, I visited the Pyramids of Dashur. These structures are close to those of Saqqara, and they continue to show the development of the pyramid builders. In the distance, and closed to the public, because it stands on a military training ground, is the enigmatic Bent Pyramid. It gets its name due to the fact that the pyramid changes angle rather suddenly half way up. Unlike many of the other pyramids, it still largely retains its limestone casing.
Nearby, is the Red Pyramid. This is the first true pyramidal structure in the world, and equals the pyramids of Giza. Tourists seldom visit the Red Pyramid, so it is a place of tranquility compared to the Pyramids in Giza. It is also possible to enter it, and climb down a very long and narrow passage into its heart. The smell of bat urine is quite overpowering.
After this visit, I then explored the cloistered streets of old Coptic Cairo, which is dotted with various churches of different denominations, as well as mosques and one of the oldest synagogues in Egypt. A fascinating place imbued with much charm.
Part 3 Coming Shortly
July 25, 2006
A JOURNEY TO EGYPT: Part One - Royal Mummies, Priceless Treasures & A Weird Pharaoh
Egypt is a land that has always been surrounded by hype, whether it be in the writings of the Greek Ptolemy or the reports of Rudyard Kipling and Mark Twain. Certainly the pharaohs themselves engaged in mammoth efforts to promote the superiority of their civilisation. Inevitably then, the first time traveller to Egypt comes with high expectations, and a tinge of fear that the legend will not live up to its reputation. Such fears, however, are very quickly vanquished after arrival.
The Egyptian people are both friendly and beguiling. They have all the mannerisms and fiery temperament of the Italians, but this betrays a far softer, gentler side to their character. It comes as no surprise, though, that after having a tourist industry that stretches millennia, the universally tried and tested techniques to depart the dollars from the traveller's hands are well honed.
On my first day in Cairo - a sandblasted city of incessant tall buildings and winding streets - I headed to the Egyptian Museum. As soon as I entered through the main entrance, I realised that the sheer number of items housed within would overwhelm me.
I started in a section that contained objects from the Old Kingdom - a time when Egypt was first unified as a nation by Narmer, and when the pharaoh, Khufu, built the Great Pyramid in Giza 4500 years ago.
One of the prized artifacts, and one that is overlooked by many tourists, is a tablet housed in a modest glass case near the entrance of the museum. Engraved upon the stone is an image of Narmer's establishment of power throughout the Nile Valley. This was the starting point for a civilisation that would last for 3000 years.
Also on the ground floor, is a section devoted to a pharaoh I am particularly fascinated by, Akhenaten. For many reasons he remains a tantalising mystery. Firstly, he is considered a heretical leader, because he broke from the traditional religion of the priesthood, which worshipped Amun and the various deities that are so associated with the ancient Egyptians. Instead, he established the first monotheistic religion, which replaced the worship of the Egyptian pantheon, with the worship of one sun god, called the Aten. This, of course, made him the enemy of many.
The second aspect of interest for me, regarding Akhenaten, is the unique design in sculpture and painting. The statues of the pharaoh appear almost deformed, with a distended stomach, large pouting lips, a long neck and extenuated eyes. The statues of Akhenaten stand out in contrast to the bold pharoanic design of those that preceded his rule and those that followed.
His famed wife, Nefertiti, is portrayed in all her legendary beauty by an unfinished piece that is present in the Akhenaten display.
On the second floor of the museum, is a section devoted to Akhenaten's son, Tutankhamun, who took power as a boy king, after perhaps Nefertiti, who is assumed by some archaeologists to have taken pharoanic duties after the death of her husband. However, there is some uncertainty, because there was an active campaign to extinguish any memory of Akhenaten and his new religion, which included the defacement of stelae and statues, as well as written records.
By the time Tutankhamun became king, the old religion had been re-established. However, he was to be an insignificant ruler, who would die young. If it were not for the discovery of his perfectly intact tomb, by Howard Carter and Lord Carnarvon, his name would not resonate as it does today.
Housed in the museum are items discovered within his humble tomb. Unlike many of the royal tombs in Egypt, which had been plundered by tomb robbers for millennia, Tutankhamun's remained miraculously untouched.
Walking around the display cases that contain the artifacts, one is immediately impressed by not only the sophistication of the work, but also how contemporary they feel. There are little chests with various small chambers for storing personal items. There are linen gloves, sumptuous beds and chairs, reed pens with inks of charcoal and henna, gold rings and necklaces that seem like they could have been fashioned today, rather than 3000 years ago.
Of course, the famous Tutankhamun mask is a marvel of artistic achievement. Made out of beaten gold, it radiates the youth of the dead king, as well as his wealth.
Also on the first floor is the Royal Mummies' Room. Within are housed the wrapped bodies of some of Egypt's (and the world's) greatest rulers. Among them is the mummy of Ramses II - perhaps the greatest pharaoh of them all. To look upon their dried faces is to look at history literally in the flesh. These rulers had once lived, breathed, ate, made love, walked, argued, cried, fought and played as we do today. What an honour to come face to face with historical figures of such magnitude!
Part 2 - Coming shortly.
The Egyptian people are both friendly and beguiling. They have all the mannerisms and fiery temperament of the Italians, but this betrays a far softer, gentler side to their character. It comes as no surprise, though, that after having a tourist industry that stretches millennia, the universally tried and tested techniques to depart the dollars from the traveller's hands are well honed.
On my first day in Cairo - a sandblasted city of incessant tall buildings and winding streets - I headed to the Egyptian Museum. As soon as I entered through the main entrance, I realised that the sheer number of items housed within would overwhelm me.
I started in a section that contained objects from the Old Kingdom - a time when Egypt was first unified as a nation by Narmer, and when the pharaoh, Khufu, built the Great Pyramid in Giza 4500 years ago.
One of the prized artifacts, and one that is overlooked by many tourists, is a tablet housed in a modest glass case near the entrance of the museum. Engraved upon the stone is an image of Narmer's establishment of power throughout the Nile Valley. This was the starting point for a civilisation that would last for 3000 years.
Also on the ground floor, is a section devoted to a pharaoh I am particularly fascinated by, Akhenaten. For many reasons he remains a tantalising mystery. Firstly, he is considered a heretical leader, because he broke from the traditional religion of the priesthood, which worshipped Amun and the various deities that are so associated with the ancient Egyptians. Instead, he established the first monotheistic religion, which replaced the worship of the Egyptian pantheon, with the worship of one sun god, called the Aten. This, of course, made him the enemy of many.
The second aspect of interest for me, regarding Akhenaten, is the unique design in sculpture and painting. The statues of the pharaoh appear almost deformed, with a distended stomach, large pouting lips, a long neck and extenuated eyes. The statues of Akhenaten stand out in contrast to the bold pharoanic design of those that preceded his rule and those that followed.
His famed wife, Nefertiti, is portrayed in all her legendary beauty by an unfinished piece that is present in the Akhenaten display.
On the second floor of the museum, is a section devoted to Akhenaten's son, Tutankhamun, who took power as a boy king, after perhaps Nefertiti, who is assumed by some archaeologists to have taken pharoanic duties after the death of her husband. However, there is some uncertainty, because there was an active campaign to extinguish any memory of Akhenaten and his new religion, which included the defacement of stelae and statues, as well as written records.
By the time Tutankhamun became king, the old religion had been re-established. However, he was to be an insignificant ruler, who would die young. If it were not for the discovery of his perfectly intact tomb, by Howard Carter and Lord Carnarvon, his name would not resonate as it does today.
Housed in the museum are items discovered within his humble tomb. Unlike many of the royal tombs in Egypt, which had been plundered by tomb robbers for millennia, Tutankhamun's remained miraculously untouched.
Walking around the display cases that contain the artifacts, one is immediately impressed by not only the sophistication of the work, but also how contemporary they feel. There are little chests with various small chambers for storing personal items. There are linen gloves, sumptuous beds and chairs, reed pens with inks of charcoal and henna, gold rings and necklaces that seem like they could have been fashioned today, rather than 3000 years ago.
Of course, the famous Tutankhamun mask is a marvel of artistic achievement. Made out of beaten gold, it radiates the youth of the dead king, as well as his wealth.
Also on the first floor is the Royal Mummies' Room. Within are housed the wrapped bodies of some of Egypt's (and the world's) greatest rulers. Among them is the mummy of Ramses II - perhaps the greatest pharaoh of them all. To look upon their dried faces is to look at history literally in the flesh. These rulers had once lived, breathed, ate, made love, walked, argued, cried, fought and played as we do today. What an honour to come face to face with historical figures of such magnitude!
Part 2 - Coming shortly.
July 20, 2006
The Mystic Traveller Is On The Road Again
Finally, my childhood dream to visit Egypt will be fulfilled tomorrow. I will be flying out of Japan at 5 o'clock, via Korea.
There is a certain irony that my journey is taking me to two regions of the world both dealing with major crises: North Korea continues to be an agitator to East Asia, with its recent test launch of a Taepondong missile, among others; while the Middle East is rapidly becoming embroiled in a massive tragedy that has the potential to explode further. Of course, I have been watching the news incessantly to make sure that I will remain out of harms way.
Just before 9/11, I had reserved a ticket to visit Egypt. When the attack on New York happened, my plans were prudently changed. Instead, I headed to the delights of Bolivia and Peru. This time, however, I am determined to visit the Land of the Pharaohs, regardless of events. I am certain that I will be fine.
For updates on my journey, please do visit this site. I am sure that I will have many traveller's tales to share.
There is a certain irony that my journey is taking me to two regions of the world both dealing with major crises: North Korea continues to be an agitator to East Asia, with its recent test launch of a Taepondong missile, among others; while the Middle East is rapidly becoming embroiled in a massive tragedy that has the potential to explode further. Of course, I have been watching the news incessantly to make sure that I will remain out of harms way.
Just before 9/11, I had reserved a ticket to visit Egypt. When the attack on New York happened, my plans were prudently changed. Instead, I headed to the delights of Bolivia and Peru. This time, however, I am determined to visit the Land of the Pharaohs, regardless of events. I am certain that I will be fine.
For updates on my journey, please do visit this site. I am sure that I will have many traveller's tales to share.
June 01, 2006
Egypt Summons
This summer, I will be fulfilling a lifelong dream to visit Egypt. For as long as I can remember, I have always been fascinated in the ancient civilisation that existed there for millennia.
I will spend three and a half weeks travelling throughout the country. Apart from visiting the obvious sites, I also plan to trek up Mount Sinai - the alleged site where Moses received the Ten Commandments. It should be a splendid and fascinating adventure.
Of course, my reliable camera will be at my side, so you can all expect to see lots of photography on this site. I am also certain that I will have many an interesting tale to tell.
I will spend three and a half weeks travelling throughout the country. Apart from visiting the obvious sites, I also plan to trek up Mount Sinai - the alleged site where Moses received the Ten Commandments. It should be a splendid and fascinating adventure.
Of course, my reliable camera will be at my side, so you can all expect to see lots of photography on this site. I am also certain that I will have many an interesting tale to tell.
May 28, 2005
Walking Across The Golden Gate Bridge
The Golden Gate Bridge
Photography By El-Branden Brazil
The Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, is one of the great bridges of the world. For 1.7 miles, it spans the bay below, connecting the city with Sausilito.
Designed by Joseph Strauss, the bridge was completed in 1937. It took nearly ten years to construct, at a cost of $35 million, and retained the record for being the longest bridge for 27 years.
During its construction, many lives were lost. On February 17th, 1937, ten men fell to their death. Due to the numerous dangers in its construction, several innovative safety measures were invented, such as a net, which hung below. This saved 19 men from certain death.
The highest point of the bridge reaches 746 feet, whilst the Art Deco towers' foundations go 110 feet underwater. The colour of the bridge is actually International Orange, and is not golden at all. It acquired the name from San Francisco, which had been called the Golden Gate City.
A visit to San Francisco should include the Golden Gate Bridge. It is both an engineering marvel and an aesthetic wonder. If time permits, it is certainly worth crossing the bridge by foot, although it is not recommended that people suffering from acute vertigo do so. Crossing the bridge takes 45 minutes one way. Splendid views of San Francisco and the infamous prison, Alcatraz, can be seen from the bridge.
During its construction, many lives were lost. On February 17th, 1937, ten men fell to their death. Due to the numerous dangers in its construction, several innovative safety measures were invented, such as a net, which hung below. This saved 19 men from certain death.
The highest point of the bridge reaches 746 feet, whilst the Art Deco towers' foundations go 110 feet underwater. The colour of the bridge is actually International Orange, and is not golden at all. It acquired the name from San Francisco, which had been called the Golden Gate City.
A visit to San Francisco should include the Golden Gate Bridge. It is both an engineering marvel and an aesthetic wonder. If time permits, it is certainly worth crossing the bridge by foot, although it is not recommended that people suffering from acute vertigo do so. Crossing the bridge takes 45 minutes one way. Splendid views of San Francisco and the infamous prison, Alcatraz, can be seen from the bridge.
February 19, 2005
Night Trekking In The Amazon
The night had thrown its blanket over the Amazon, and we were now trekking in the dense rainforest, with only torchlight to guide us. I had found the jungle intimidating in the daytime, but at night, it had taken on a totally different atmosphere. The life that had been hidden away from the sunlight of day, was now out under the relative safety of darkness.
The three of us treaded carefully behind our Amazonian Indian guide, with our minds filled with the vast array of dangerous fauna and flora that pervades the rainforest. Once in a while, a vine would brush over my face, immediately jolting me into alert mode.
We stopped at one tree, and shone our torches up at the tangled vines. There, many tarantulas sat adorning the branches, like hairy Christmas decorations, waiting for prey to come their way.
A Tarantula On A Tree (taken with a poor digital camera)
Photography By El-Branden Brazil
As we continued on, I thought about the infamous Bushmaster - the most feared venomous snake in the Amazon. Unlike the Ferdelance, which tends to avoid human contact, the Bushmaster is highly aggressive. It is also the owner of the largest viper fangs in the world. According to our guide, legend has it, that the Bushmaster will bite repeatedly, and then it will curl up on the chest of the corpse, absorbing the heat from the victim.
Every branch that lay on the path was stepped on to, rather than over. This is a recommended habit, because snakes often hide near logs. I had no intention of meeting an unsuspecting Bushmaster!
Our lights shone out on everything around us. At one point, very large, plump Bull frogs appeared on the path. But, unlike the frogs back in England, they were not fearful of us, and immediately charged if any of us approached them.
As my torchlight crossed the canopy and then back down to the path, I suddenly became aware of a long, slithering body up ahead of our guide. Instinctively, I shouted out, "SNAKE!"
Now, our jungle guide was a fine fellow, with an admirable knowledge of the rainforest, but I have NEVER seen anyone jump so far backwards in my life. The guy was practically levitating!
The three of us treaded carefully behind our Amazonian Indian guide, with our minds filled with the vast array of dangerous fauna and flora that pervades the rainforest. Once in a while, a vine would brush over my face, immediately jolting me into alert mode.
We stopped at one tree, and shone our torches up at the tangled vines. There, many tarantulas sat adorning the branches, like hairy Christmas decorations, waiting for prey to come their way.
A Tarantula On A Tree (taken with a poor digital camera)
Photography By El-Branden Brazil
As we continued on, I thought about the infamous Bushmaster - the most feared venomous snake in the Amazon. Unlike the Ferdelance, which tends to avoid human contact, the Bushmaster is highly aggressive. It is also the owner of the largest viper fangs in the world. According to our guide, legend has it, that the Bushmaster will bite repeatedly, and then it will curl up on the chest of the corpse, absorbing the heat from the victim.
Every branch that lay on the path was stepped on to, rather than over. This is a recommended habit, because snakes often hide near logs. I had no intention of meeting an unsuspecting Bushmaster!
Our lights shone out on everything around us. At one point, very large, plump Bull frogs appeared on the path. But, unlike the frogs back in England, they were not fearful of us, and immediately charged if any of us approached them.
As my torchlight crossed the canopy and then back down to the path, I suddenly became aware of a long, slithering body up ahead of our guide. Instinctively, I shouted out, "SNAKE!"
Now, our jungle guide was a fine fellow, with an admirable knowledge of the rainforest, but I have NEVER seen anyone jump so far backwards in my life. The guy was practically levitating!
Dave, a biologist from San Francisco, immediately recognised the snake species, and against the guide’s advice, decided to leap on to it and grab it! Thankfully, he had not made a misjudgment and picked up a Bushmaster! Instead, he held on to a beautiful Rainbow boa constrictor, and whilst not venomous, could certainly cause a nasty bite with its sharp reticular teeth. The guide was not impressed by any of this behaviour, and just looked on.
Jason and the Rainbow boa-constrictor (poor digital camera)
Photography By El-Branden Brazil
The Amazon is a place that needs to be respected, and a guide is a necessary requirement for anyone unfamiliar with the environment. That said, whilst the rainforest has many hidden dangers, it is a beautiful place where the human spirit can once again come close to the primordial. Here, the sights, noises and smells attune the soul, and bring about a direct realisation of the symbiosis that we are apart of on this fragile planet.
February 16, 2005
Ascending Mount Fuji
A Climber On Fuji-san
Photography By El-Branden Brazil
The majestic peak of Mount Fuji represents the Japanese like no other natural feature. This almost perfect volcanic cone stands watch over Tokyo, revealing itself often during the dry winter months.
Whilst not a giant mountain on the scale of the Himalayan peaks, it does measure 3776 meters, so whilst accessible for trekkers, it is high enough that it requires respect. Between the months of June to September, the mountain opens to people driven to climb to its peak. Other times of year are off limits to anyone other than expert mountaineers; brave enough to face its icy slopes and fierce weather conditions.
Most summer climbers attempt the challenge during the night, so that the dawn can be witnessed from the summit. Whilst the path leading up is fairly straightforward, it is recommended that all climbers wear sturdy hiking boots with good ankle support, as well as a daypack to carry warmer clothes for the peak, where the temperatures drop enormously from the summer humidity at the base.
Anyone assuming to scale this mountain with Romantic inclinations of doing so alone, will be sorely disappointed by the caterpillar of well-rigged Japanese hikers, crawling slowly and methodically up. Many of them stay at several of the over-priced, basic lodges that mark each of the nine stages to the top.
As the climber zigzags up to the seventh stage, the path suddenly alters into a more stimulating challenge, that requires clambering up on rocks, using chains to grab on to. The air also becomes thinner and thinner, especially after passing the 3000 meter mark. Some people carry small canisters of oxygen to avert altitude sickness. However, many of these people have finished their canisters well before they were needed.
The climb, whilst popular, is not as easy as many people assume it to be. It is a real mountain that requires stamina and perseverance. There are many who find the challenge too much, and backtrack down disappointed.
Sunrise On Fuji-san
Photography By El-Branden Brazil
The legs become stiffer and the air cooler, as the night continues on. If the weather conditions are fine, a starlit sky of such clarity accompanies, with the dull blue clouds below, illuminated by the moon. The heart pounds ferociously and the lungs and throat become parched, but those moments of silence among the stars, when rest is called upon, are unforgettable.
Once at the peak, it is a surprise to find a large lodge, offering drinks, noodles and Japanese boiled foods, called Oden. It makes for a comfortable place to linger, whilst waiting for the twinkle of dawn to manifest.
Slowly, the darkness begins to fade, as the Sun begins its ascent upon the horizon. People assemble their cameras, many shaking with the chilling, biting wind. There, breaking above the clouds, a bright shaft of light pushes out. As this happens, everyone shouts out "Banzai! Banzai!"
Very soon, the sky is dominated by the brilliant sun, which illuminates Fuji, revealing the deep crater that leads to the heart of the mountain. In the daytime, the dormant volcano metamorphoses into an entirely different environment, appearing very similar to Mars, with its red rock.
The descent down is the hardest part of the trek. Climbers without walking sticks, find themselves slipping repeatedly on the round, sharp volcanic stones that litter the winding pathway. The Sun also bakes those foolish enough not to bring a hat or sun block.
After a somewhat monotonous climb down, the exhausted climber finally reaches the bus stop, where the coaches come to ferry city dwellers back to the concrete jungle of modern Tokyo.
Whilst not a giant mountain on the scale of the Himalayan peaks, it does measure 3776 meters, so whilst accessible for trekkers, it is high enough that it requires respect. Between the months of June to September, the mountain opens to people driven to climb to its peak. Other times of year are off limits to anyone other than expert mountaineers; brave enough to face its icy slopes and fierce weather conditions.
Most summer climbers attempt the challenge during the night, so that the dawn can be witnessed from the summit. Whilst the path leading up is fairly straightforward, it is recommended that all climbers wear sturdy hiking boots with good ankle support, as well as a daypack to carry warmer clothes for the peak, where the temperatures drop enormously from the summer humidity at the base.
Anyone assuming to scale this mountain with Romantic inclinations of doing so alone, will be sorely disappointed by the caterpillar of well-rigged Japanese hikers, crawling slowly and methodically up. Many of them stay at several of the over-priced, basic lodges that mark each of the nine stages to the top.
As the climber zigzags up to the seventh stage, the path suddenly alters into a more stimulating challenge, that requires clambering up on rocks, using chains to grab on to. The air also becomes thinner and thinner, especially after passing the 3000 meter mark. Some people carry small canisters of oxygen to avert altitude sickness. However, many of these people have finished their canisters well before they were needed.
The climb, whilst popular, is not as easy as many people assume it to be. It is a real mountain that requires stamina and perseverance. There are many who find the challenge too much, and backtrack down disappointed.
Sunrise On Fuji-san
Photography By El-Branden Brazil
The legs become stiffer and the air cooler, as the night continues on. If the weather conditions are fine, a starlit sky of such clarity accompanies, with the dull blue clouds below, illuminated by the moon. The heart pounds ferociously and the lungs and throat become parched, but those moments of silence among the stars, when rest is called upon, are unforgettable.
Once at the peak, it is a surprise to find a large lodge, offering drinks, noodles and Japanese boiled foods, called Oden. It makes for a comfortable place to linger, whilst waiting for the twinkle of dawn to manifest.
Slowly, the darkness begins to fade, as the Sun begins its ascent upon the horizon. People assemble their cameras, many shaking with the chilling, biting wind. There, breaking above the clouds, a bright shaft of light pushes out. As this happens, everyone shouts out "Banzai! Banzai!"
Very soon, the sky is dominated by the brilliant sun, which illuminates Fuji, revealing the deep crater that leads to the heart of the mountain. In the daytime, the dormant volcano metamorphoses into an entirely different environment, appearing very similar to Mars, with its red rock.
The descent down is the hardest part of the trek. Climbers without walking sticks, find themselves slipping repeatedly on the round, sharp volcanic stones that litter the winding pathway. The Sun also bakes those foolish enough not to bring a hat or sun block.
After a somewhat monotonous climb down, the exhausted climber finally reaches the bus stop, where the coaches come to ferry city dwellers back to the concrete jungle of modern Tokyo.
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